[From Captain Dave]
Hi! Everyone:
It was June 2006 when Raven was last in Charleston, SC. We had made a long trek “on the outside” from Jacksonville, FL, and were so glad of an opportunity to rest that we anchored for two weeks in the Ashley River. Today, as we followed a reversed track from Winyah Bay down the ICW into the east side of Charleston harbor, we felt much more at ease than we did one year ago. Dare I say that we are getting the hang of this cruising life at last?
Tonight we are at anchor in Wappoo Creek, just off the west side of the harbor, again in the ICW. We arrived around 1530, in plenty of time to set two anchors, ready for when the current turns 180 degrees in this narrow channel. We are expecting dense fog again, tomorrow morning. It socked us in this morning at Awendaw Creek in Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge. This is now one of my favorite anchorages. There is nothing around for miles but marshes. I stepped outside last night and easily saw the Milky Way. All the stars of Orion were mirrored in the still water, so clear that there were in effect two Orions visible, one on top of the other. The fog began to form around 2200, the glow from the anchor light being reflected back down to the deck. Animals on the marshes rustled and called. Something with large lungs yawned loudly, stimulating images of alligators. If animals think at all, they must wonder if they will survive the night. It used to be that way for humans, too.
On the run from Georgetown to Awendaw Creek we were passed by only one boat, a motor trawler who hailed us to request us to slow down to let him pass. In return, he went by with minimal wake. Like so many trawler owners, he opened his cabin door close the steering station to come outside and shout greetings. We were so impressed by the compactness of his craft that we hailed him for a short chat on the VHF. Turns out it is a thirty year old Pearson motor cruiser that he’s had for over twenty years. It is powered by two, 4-cylinder John Deere tractor motors, each burning 1.3 gallons per hour. To our eyes, it was a sturdy, unpretentious vessel. So many that we see are huge and extravagant, conspicuous consumption afloat. Still, compared to Raven’s 0.6 gallons per hour, it is horrendously fuel-hungry.
At Georgetown, we stayed at Georgetown Landing Marina. We took on fuel and water. We deposited trash and black water. Service here was excellent and the rates very reasonable. We walked about a mile into town. Schnitzel was as delighted to be stretching her legs as we were. Our mission was to find Ice cream, which we did. Front Street was quiet (Sunday Afternoon) and very picturesque. I took many photos and we enjoyed walking the boardwalk along the river’s edge, wondering what it might have been like to anchor in such a narrow channel. By the time we returned to Raven, we were all dragging our feet.
Next morning, before leaving, we walked to the BP gas station and bought the essentials: milk, bread, and potato chips. The only bread available was Wonder Bread, an appropriate name because we wonder if it is really bread at all. Nearby is Schofield’s hardware store. This is an Aladdin’s Cave for all sorts of boat parts: galvanized shackles, funnels, hose connectors, propane cylinders, etc. What a barn of a place.
Tonight, I remembered to check Raven’s engine oil while the engine was still warm. Engine oil just doesn’t flow well in the morning, when it is cold. (I sympathize. I’m the same way.) My other chore tonight was to clean the paddle when on the knot meter sensor. I am always reluctant to do this because when I remove the sensor from the keel, a 1.5” column of water rushed into the bilge, until I insert the blank plug into the hole. I am always fearful of dropping something and sinking Raven on the spot. The reality is much less trouble than my fears predict. The Neuse River growth was like hairy mud, containing tiny barnacles. The cleaned sensor is now back in place and for the first time in weeks, we shall be able to compare our speed through the water and our speed over the bottom. Why bother? To determine the effects of current on Raven’s progress. In still water, both readings should be the same. A difference in readings indicates current, either helping or hindering our progress.
The warm, calm weather is very welcome. The cabin remains warm at night, even at anchor, when we cannot run our heat pump. Heat in these conditions comes from a small Coleman propane heater. It is rated at 1000 BTU, which is little better than a single candle might emit, or so it feels sometimes.
In two more days, we should be in Beaufort, SC, where we shall reprovision and make ready for the hop “on the outside” to St Mary’s, GA, close to the GA-FL state line, and Fernandina Beach, FL.
Best regards from Raven.
Hi! Everyone:
It was June 2006 when Raven was last in Charleston, SC. We had made a long trek “on the outside” from Jacksonville, FL, and were so glad of an opportunity to rest that we anchored for two weeks in the Ashley River. Today, as we followed a reversed track from Winyah Bay down the ICW into the east side of Charleston harbor, we felt much more at ease than we did one year ago. Dare I say that we are getting the hang of this cruising life at last?
Tonight we are at anchor in Wappoo Creek, just off the west side of the harbor, again in the ICW. We arrived around 1530, in plenty of time to set two anchors, ready for when the current turns 180 degrees in this narrow channel. We are expecting dense fog again, tomorrow morning. It socked us in this morning at Awendaw Creek in Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge. This is now one of my favorite anchorages. There is nothing around for miles but marshes. I stepped outside last night and easily saw the Milky Way. All the stars of Orion were mirrored in the still water, so clear that there were in effect two Orions visible, one on top of the other. The fog began to form around 2200, the glow from the anchor light being reflected back down to the deck. Animals on the marshes rustled and called. Something with large lungs yawned loudly, stimulating images of alligators. If animals think at all, they must wonder if they will survive the night. It used to be that way for humans, too.
On the run from Georgetown to Awendaw Creek we were passed by only one boat, a motor trawler who hailed us to request us to slow down to let him pass. In return, he went by with minimal wake. Like so many trawler owners, he opened his cabin door close the steering station to come outside and shout greetings. We were so impressed by the compactness of his craft that we hailed him for a short chat on the VHF. Turns out it is a thirty year old Pearson motor cruiser that he’s had for over twenty years. It is powered by two, 4-cylinder John Deere tractor motors, each burning 1.3 gallons per hour. To our eyes, it was a sturdy, unpretentious vessel. So many that we see are huge and extravagant, conspicuous consumption afloat. Still, compared to Raven’s 0.6 gallons per hour, it is horrendously fuel-hungry.
At Georgetown, we stayed at Georgetown Landing Marina. We took on fuel and water. We deposited trash and black water. Service here was excellent and the rates very reasonable. We walked about a mile into town. Schnitzel was as delighted to be stretching her legs as we were. Our mission was to find Ice cream, which we did. Front Street was quiet (Sunday Afternoon) and very picturesque. I took many photos and we enjoyed walking the boardwalk along the river’s edge, wondering what it might have been like to anchor in such a narrow channel. By the time we returned to Raven, we were all dragging our feet.
Next morning, before leaving, we walked to the BP gas station and bought the essentials: milk, bread, and potato chips. The only bread available was Wonder Bread, an appropriate name because we wonder if it is really bread at all. Nearby is Schofield’s hardware store. This is an Aladdin’s Cave for all sorts of boat parts: galvanized shackles, funnels, hose connectors, propane cylinders, etc. What a barn of a place.
Tonight, I remembered to check Raven’s engine oil while the engine was still warm. Engine oil just doesn’t flow well in the morning, when it is cold. (I sympathize. I’m the same way.) My other chore tonight was to clean the paddle when on the knot meter sensor. I am always reluctant to do this because when I remove the sensor from the keel, a 1.5” column of water rushed into the bilge, until I insert the blank plug into the hole. I am always fearful of dropping something and sinking Raven on the spot. The reality is much less trouble than my fears predict. The Neuse River growth was like hairy mud, containing tiny barnacles. The cleaned sensor is now back in place and for the first time in weeks, we shall be able to compare our speed through the water and our speed over the bottom. Why bother? To determine the effects of current on Raven’s progress. In still water, both readings should be the same. A difference in readings indicates current, either helping or hindering our progress.
The warm, calm weather is very welcome. The cabin remains warm at night, even at anchor, when we cannot run our heat pump. Heat in these conditions comes from a small Coleman propane heater. It is rated at 1000 BTU, which is little better than a single candle might emit, or so it feels sometimes.
In two more days, we should be in Beaufort, SC, where we shall reprovision and make ready for the hop “on the outside” to St Mary’s, GA, close to the GA-FL state line, and Fernandina Beach, FL.
Best regards from Raven.
2 comments:
Dude, that photo of you is AWESOME. You look like a captain.
-Willie
And welcome to bloggyville!
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