[Hilde’s log]
We’re beach
weanies. I’m not much on sand (it’s hard to walk through and gets
everywhere) and David doesn’t like the heat. Neither of us has much
urge to swim in opaque water and be nibbled by anonymous critters. So
we wandered out on Wrightsville Beach, took a couple of snaps, and
wandered right back into town.
Wrightsville Beach - gorgeous white sand and hot white sun. |
Then we found out
that the only attractions at Wrightsville Beach are the water and the
beach. David solved that problem by fitting out the sailing kit for
the dinghy, and we spent a couple of hours sailing up and down the
anchorage. He sails; I’m ballast; we both have fun!
Sunset at Wrightsville Beach. |
A long, 40-mile day
found us at anchor off Camp LeJeune at Mile Hammock Bay. We were so
bushed, the occasional ordnance fire didn’t keep us awake at all.
Early in the morning, smoke from fires set off by the “war games”
woke us. It’s a nice anchorage, despite the army activity, and it
was a relief to be able to stop for the night.
Our next stop was
Swansboro, where the anchorage was shallow, but gave us a good view
of the town, the highway, and various restaurants. We spend three
nights there. Our second day, we dinghied in for breakfast at
Yanna’s, which was spilling over with customers. A walking tour of
the town took up the rest of the morning. That evening we dinghied in
the opposite direction and treated ourselves to a fine Mediterranean
meal.
We admired this house's beautiful garden. |
One of the streets in the historic district, Swansboro. |
Stormy skies over Swansboro. This one blew past us without even a sprinkle. |
Swansboro - view from the water. |
Here we are in the anchorage...before I ran us aground. |
Our third day was
not planned. As we were leaving the anchorage, I managed to ground us
(again – this is my third time, I think; I am losing count) and we
spend the entire frustrating day on board sweating and waiting for
the shallow tide to rise and lift us off, which it did about 4 p.m.
We went into the fuel dock for diesel and turned back to the
anchorage for another night. Fortunately, David has a program on his
phone that shows the contours of the bottom (sonar charts), so he
downloaded this anchorage and we were able to leave without further
ado the next morning.
The next day was
another long trek, from Swansboro through Bogue Sound, past Moorehead
City, and up Adams Creek. I remembered the anchorage at Moorehead
City and was glad we didn’t have to stop there. It’s narrow and
crowded and bad holding. We zipped past the town like a cat with its
tail on fire: the current was running at 2.2+ knots with us and Raven
flashed along at over 7 knots. That’s fast for us.
Underway from Swansboro under a beautiful summer sky. We have the jib out to give our speed a boost. |
One of the huge working ships at the dock at Moorehead City. Check out the "little" boat (probably 20 feet long) running along beside for a size comparison. |
I love Bogue Sound.
It’s a wide, wide expanse of water which is a delight in mild wind.
We passed numerous pockets of tiny silver fish that flittered and
leaped about on the surface of the water, creating water-borne
glitter. I fantasized they were playing in the sun, but I’m pretty
sure they were trying to avoid being lunch for the dolphins that
surrounded us.
The sound is broken
up by islands and sand bars and coves. Houses line the shores, but
they are so far away it doesn’t feel crowded. We passed one couple
who had pulled their runabout up on a sandbar and debarked a couple
of folding chairs and two excited dogs who ran back and forth on the
bar, splashing and snapping at the water. Great idea! Pull up to your
own little island and let the dogs run while you read the paper.
Neither of us
remembered the views on Adams Creek, except we are both pretty sure
it wasn’t built up ten years ago. Now there are three story houses
on both sides of the Creek for quite a way. They finally peter out
near the Neuse River. Cedar Creek is just a little south of the
Neuse; Oriental is just across the Neuse River.
Arriving about 4
p.m., we anchored in 7 feet of water and spent a pleasant evening
watching the world chug down the ICW. Fishing trawlers motored up and
down with their nets out, and at one point two barges converged, one
from either end of the channel. We were very glad to be anchored and
not playing tag with those behemoths. When we came in, a lone
catamaran was anchored near the shore. One other sailboat came in
about an hour after we arrived, and then all was quiet.
Nose to nose barges on the ICW off Cedar Creek. |
We ended up sharing
space with an entire commercial fishing fleet. They were the fishing
trawlers we had been watching - seven boats that went in and out of
their marina all afternoon and well into the evening, followed by a
cloud of squawking gulls. In addition to the lone sailboat that
anchored near us, the morning light revealed four more sailboats
rafted up near us, flags flying gaily in the breeze. They took off
later in the morning, but were replaced in the rainy afternoon by
another three sailboats and a catamaran. We saw more sailboats at Cedar Creek than we’ve seen in the last two months!
We broke out the
dinghy again and sailed all over the little bay. About eleven a.m. we
heard thunder, and about noon a huge mass of black clouds appeared
and roared through the anchorage bringing heavy rain and blessedly
cool temperatures. The storm whooshed past, but left gray skies and
constant rain for the rest of the day. It was a blessing – it was
finally cool enough for me to cook something in the galley.
Rainy day on Cedar Creek. |
It feels good to be
back in North Carolina. It’s like East Texas with a lot of water. A
lot of water. Last night I lay awake and listened to whip-poor-wills
call in the trees; the air smells like wet pines. I am excited to be
on the way to Oriental for a few days and then on to New Bern. We lived in New Bern for a
year and we are both anxious to see how it has fared and whether we
still feel at home there.
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